Glenn Martens‘ revival of Diesel carries on strong for Pre-Fall 2023, a time for the House to look at commerciality by addressing the needs, wants and desires of its consumers. Speaking exclusively to Vogue Runway, Martens explained that “our shows are more for people in the fashion industry, while with our pre-collections we try to speak to everyone; my brother, my mother, teenagers in high schools… everyone.” With that in mind, Diesel’s PF23 offering dials down some of the drama in favor for wearability, ushering in the very influences that have given the brand its newfound it-appeal.
Denim is, of course, found in abundance. Jeans are distressed and sit low-rise for that quintessential Y2K look, while jackets are cropped and form-fitting, sitting snug to the bust and shoulders to accentuate proportions in a space-girl kind of way. This continues throughout, as sunglasses are small in a Matrix manner, bandeaus made from boucle denim are teeny and put the focus on Diesel’s emblematic branding, and underwear (also made from a denim-woven jersey) is on full show per the 2000s trend that permeates the House’s identity.
Menswear takes various approaches, but all feel equally relevant and right for Diesel’s direction. From straight-leg jeans paired with heavily-worn-in workwear boots and an exposed-seam mottled gray top tucked into some pants to the leather jacket and distressed-waist denim ensemble that oozes off-duty construction worker vibes, Martens definitely sets the tone for menswear next year. Looks aren’t too thought-out or pretentious, nor overstyled, they’re just at ease. It’s this that makes Diesel irreverent and timeless, as further accounted for by the brand’s tailored ’90s tracksuits, boxy blazers, tactical multi-pocket cargo bombers, bleach-destroyed flannel shirts, Canadian tuxedos and so much more it put its hand to this season.
Pre-Fall 2023 is for the cool girl, the chill guy; someone who doesn’t take themselves too seriously. From the enormous belts to the delicately distressed bags, logo-bearing hats to subtle archival nods, this is Martens once again doing Diesel justice. Take a look at the collection in the lookbook above.
For more Fall-ready looks, check out the latest from Sillage.
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